Attachable FSR probe for E3Dv6 hotends

Discussion in 'OpenBeam Kossel Reprap and OpenBeam Kossel Pro' started by grainiac, Nov 2, 2015.

  1. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    Time for a new mod! I was not really satisfied with the FSRs under my bed as the effector needed a lot of pressure to trigger them. So I thought of a different approach and had the idea to design a probe that will be attached to the hotend only during initial calibration and can then be removed to save the extra weight on the end effector. I also wanted to reuse the FSR sensors.

    You can download the design from my GitHub repo:
    https://github.com/grainiac/3D_Printing/tree/master/E3Dv6_FSR_Probe

    More fotos and videos on Google+:
    https://plus.google.com/ AlexSkoruppa/posts/ZCENozjEDKn

    Some fotos:

    Attached Files:

    Corey Morreale likes this.
  2. samspade4321

    samspade4321 Member

    @grainiac, you certainly have some good ideas!!;) Are you using the original calibration wire in the OBKP harness? Also, I presume the hot end is off during the calibration?
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2015
  3. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    Yes and yes! Using the original wire and of course the hotend is OFF! ;)

    I guess you mean the red rods in the standard effector? I used them because the are slightly longer (40mm) and better fill the 41mm between the arm mount points. The original rods have only 37mm. The blower is 24V and the always on is 5V.
  4. Steve Heer

    Steve Heer Active Member

    This new mod looks great! I really like the idea of the probe position being exactly where the nozzle is instead of off to the side. Have you ran a few calibrations to determine consistency?
  5. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    I've successfully completed a 2-3h calibration session with the probe! I am using 626pilot's SmoothieWare flavor: https://github.com/626Pilot/Smoothieware Results seems to be great....I just did a half 3DBenchy and some small parts since the weekend due to a lack of free time. :)
    samspade4321 likes this.
  6. samspade4321

    samspade4321 Member

    I can see what you mean after looking at the original effector photo elsewhere. I thought that the original shoulder bolts screwed all the way into the plastic and rested against the aluminum standoffs. I'm planning to use the original bearings and shoulder bolts. Is that a bad idea?
  7. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    It will work, I used them on V1 of my E3Dv6 end effector but it's hard to find the right setting for the shoulder bolts. If you screw them to loose, they will unscrew themselfes and if you screw them to tight you block the bearings. I used some Loctide threadlocker to get it right.
    samspade4321 likes this.
  8. ChopOMatic

    ChopOMatic Active Member

    I'm way out of touch here, so my first question is: What is that print bed?
  9. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    A 5mm thick PEI coated aluminum print bed! You can print on it without glue stick, abs ink, blue tape.....a very recommendable upgrade! ;)
  10. ChopOMatic

    ChopOMatic Active Member

    @grainiac , where'd you get that bad boy of a bed?
  11. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    They custom made it for my KosselPro: http://clever3d.de (it was 56,90€ with shipping)
    ChopOMatic likes this.
  12. AndyG

    AndyG Member

    Good stuff! Is the plate electrically conductive with the PEI coating?
  13. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    Unfortunately not......I already tried that!
  14. Steve Heer

    Steve Heer Active Member

    Hey @grainiac , How is the PEI coating for removing the finished model? Do you need to use tools to pry the model off and if so have you scratched the surface of the PEI coating at all? Just curious what the longevity of the aluminum plate with the coating is. I can buy lots of rolls of blue tape for that much $$. :) I have pretty much 100% success with the blue tape. I have only had one model become knocked over since I bought the KP and it was really my fault for not creating a brim to add support to the small surface area of the base of the print.

    I also see you have commented negatively about the IGUS Drylin rails systems on your google page.... Do they not have good tight tolerances? I was planning on buying some to replace the stock rails/bearings but kinda glad I haven't yet if they are not up to the challenge of accuracy. Like you, I find myself committed to improving on the overall performance and accuracy of the KP. The KP design was well thought out but the materials of some of the components could have been of higher quality IMO.
  15. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    The PEI printbed just needs to cool down, then the part will just pop off. You can scratch the surface, I already have a lot of marks on it from heavy usage, but the parts still stick very good to the surface. I can really recommend the PEI printbed, also my new CoreXY design will get one!
    The first Igus carriages really were to loose on the rails. Now I have adjustable carriages but I think there are better options out there. At the moment the KP really produces nice and constant quality prints and maybe if I get bored I'll change them again. But you better get some Hiwin or other quality rails.
  16. Steve Heer

    Steve Heer Active Member

    Thanks for the info Alex. That's good to know so I will be doing a little more research on rail systems before I buy! I'm still waiting for my E3Dv6 to arrive... should be today or tomorrow as it cleared customs on Monday. I've decided to just replace the worn nozzle on the K-Head for the time being so I can print all the effector parts in ABS right from the start. This will save some re-calibration time as I can make adjustments manually for any difference in the nozzle length/position. I am looking forward to the upgrade tho!

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