Firmware settings, first prints, slicer settings...

Discussion in 'OpenBeam Kossel Reprap and OpenBeam Kossel Pro' started by Terence Tam, Dec 27, 2014.

  1. RicerX1

    RicerX1 New Member

    1/8 turn maybe safe wont know for sure till we know more information I just dont want to be the guinea pig =)
    I've made do with a different bowden tube and turning up the temp and different filament. Over hangs and bridges are horrible (on purposed bridging and overhang test) but besides that the prints look great. Maybe the new hot end will help to get us printing at lower temps.

    If you have the chance can you check your bowden tube. Remove it from the fitting and see if you can stick in the 2mm drill rod that was removed from the hotend during assembly
  2. chadman

    chadman Member

  3. RicerX1

    RicerX1 New Member

    Dunno how I forgot that thread/info. Thanks for the remind.
    Default of 1.25a = 1.5v/(5*Rsense) making sense the sense resistor 0.24ohm

    1/4 turn will make the vref 2.5v/(5*0.24ohm)= 2.08amp
    1/8 turn will make the vref 2.0v/(5*0.24ohm)= 1.67amp

    But if mike said 1/4 turn is okay should be okay since they designed the board.
  4. Rick Gordon

    Rick Gordon Member

    I've been monitoring the temp at the motor - and no problem there at least.
    I need to run some tests on reducing the temp now though - this is very hot for printing PLA and seems to cause me bridge and overhang problems.
  5. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    Any progress on collapsing horizontal surfaces? I have the same problem...
  6. SeaScottRun

    SeaScottRun New Member

    I'm having difficulty getting my layers to stick together. I tried adjusting the temperature and height, but it didn't seem to make much of a difference. Any ideas of something else I should try?
    It looks like:

    [​IMG]
  7. jasonmiles

    jasonmiles Member

    Are you printing really fast? You might try slowing your printer down. How many loops are you printing? Sometimes printing more loops (thicker wall) can help.
  8. Mike Francies

    Mike Francies Member

    Grainiac; No, there was absolutely no response to my request. Where I need a good top surface, I increase the number of layers to five or six and increase the extrude rate for those layers. The downside is that you need to be near the printer to increase the extrude rate at the right time. I had hoped that Taylor, from MatterHackers may have chipped in with a solution.
  9. Mike Francies

    Mike Francies Member

    SeaScottRun; That print does not look good. Would you mind uploading that particular file so I can try and print it? If it prints well on my machine, I will let you know what settings I've used. It looks like your hotend is taking some strange shortcuts across the workpiece.
  10. chadman

    chadman Member

    Any chance layers are missing in the slicer output?
  11. SeaScottRun

    SeaScottRun New Member


    The stl file used is the Rocket Shot glass here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9916
    That being said, I don't think it's file dependent since I printed a calibration cube which looked similar.

    I'm using Repetier host. I don't suppose there's standard settings I should start off with?
  12. David Boyd

    David Boyd Active Member

    I had this problem. It turned out that especially with CURA I needed to slow things way down.
  13. SeaScottRun

    SeaScottRun New Member

    I figured it out - I had left the nozzle diameter as 0.5mm in the settings, when it should have been changed to 0.25mm
  14. Mike Francies

    Mike Francies Member

    SeaScottRun; I printed the part successfully using MatterSlice and the settings below. Also I think the nozzle size should be 0.35mm unless you have a special one.

    Attached Files:

    protoserge likes this.
  15. Def

    Def Member

    I had to take a step back from my printer so I didn't destroy it with a baseball bat after about 12-14 hrs of tinkering with it with no end in sight for my communication issues (which I detailed in another thread).

    So I moved the printer and connected it to my desktop. But going back to the first few pages, and all the search hits I can find in the forum give me a DropBox location for a driver that's no longer available.


    Anybody have a good (preferably official) source for a driver for the BW Pro? Kinda odd to have something so important MIA from what I can tell on all the official sites.
  16. Terence Tam

    Terence Tam Mr. OpenBeam Staff Member Vendor

    Assuming a Windows machine, the driver is installed with MatterControl.

    With regards to the communications issue - we can try swapping boards with you, if you think that's an issue. We've not had any luck trying to figure out why some combinations of computer, USB cable, board works just fine, and some routinely craps the bed. But we'd be happy to swap boards.

    -=- Terence
  17. Def

    Def Member

    Terence,

    Thanks for the quick response. It's been a while so I forgot that one on MC having the driver.

    I actually got a replacement board from you guys a while ago (it had no return label that came with it BTW!). I believe I'm on the replacement board, but I've swapped them a few times so it's hard to keep track. They're both running the Jan 17 firmware.

    I'll swap them again, and I ordered another brand of cable just to try to eliminate that.

    I've got the same behavior on 3 different computers of various speed and age, so I think I've eliminated that as a potential root cause.

    The frustrating thing is it worked fine for a few weeks, and really didn't do anything to the printer to cause it to flake out, but it's like clockwork now, won't print past about 10-15 mins, even on an SD card.
  18. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    I can report that my BW also needs 40-50 boot cycles / cable reconnecting / resetting whatever to connect. When it finally connects (after 15minutes trying) I am able to print. In this operation mode I printed all the ABS parts for my E3Dv6 end effector, the bed clamps and the FSR mounts. But the newest strange behaviour is that it started during prints first to print straight lines as curves and second spooling the filament backwards in high speed for 30cm then starting with normal feeding again. For now I have stopped working on the Kossel. I will try an Azteeg X5 mini with the Smoothieware firmware in the next days. Should that work I will have replaced the electronics board, the end effector / hot end, the probe mechanism, the bed clamps, added Astrosyn dampeners and a high quality passive cooled PSU. That's imho way to much invested on top of the original offering to get a reliable, quite and FUNCTIONAL printer. At least the very good mechanical construction out of OpenBeam profiles is something that would make me consider buying the Kossel again. My improvement advice would be to drop all the original components I just mentioned which I replaced and use proven stock components like E3D, Rambo/Smoothie/whatever, a display, passive high quality PSU + the solid mechanical frame of the Kossel. But don't get me wrong I still really like the Kossel. I think with the community around it it's a great platform that can be constantly improved in the future and we all have the chance to contribute.
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2015
    Ezra likes this.
  19. AndyG

    AndyG Member

    I've seen some strange behavoirs that are similar to what you've reported @grainiac with my BW as well. I've seen the weird retraction for sure a couple of times. I've also seen it where single long commands will sometimes screw up but I think this is due to my simplify3d settings because it's expecting communication back from the BW too quickly. I've since moved to just placing everything on memory card and printing from there using the simplify3d interface (which BTW is a pretty awesome program ). I noticed that all of my "weird" behaviors went away once I stabilized my USB connection by adding a support bracket for the BW side and getting a nicer cable.

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