General Build Questions / Build Procedures / Common Pitfalls

Discussion in 'OpenBeam Kossel Reprap and OpenBeam Kossel Pro' started by Terence Tam, Dec 24, 2014.

  1. Paul Tan

    Paul Tan New Member

    Just found out my thermistor is busted. Sorry for asking about just splicing the wires. I'm just a newbie. :(
    Does anyone here know the specs of the thermistor? So I can find one or the closest specs here in philippines.

    Buying overseas is not a good option for me. Hotends.com only sells hotend and hotend parts. If I'm going to order only less than $10, it will not be economical for me.
    The shipping and tax will be higher than the actual item I need.

    Or maybe can anyone suggest a site that sells thermistor, ptfe insulator, spools and maybe a 3d printer? Matterhacker doesn't have thermistor and ptfe insulator for the thermistor in there inventory.
  2. Dantzler

    Dantzler Member

    Paul, I found the thermistor specs by using the search feature. This forum has been active and there is a wealth of information to be found.

    I notice from the Mouser link that this product is slated to be discontinued.

    One thing to note is that there is some flexibility in thermistor choice, but the firmware must reflect which thermistor is installed. This could give you more flexibility.

    http://forums.openbeamusa.com/threa...creasing-extruder-motor-current.98/#post-1351

    http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...us8Bdze3liBnsLIhUT1Zyl2MrxtJq3jBt70hi%2by3w==

    here is the section of firmware for thermal settings:
    Code:
    //===========================================================================
    //=============================Thermal Settings  ============================
    //===========================================================================
    //
    //--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
    //
    //// Temperature sensor settings:
    // -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
    // -1 is thermocouple with AD595
    // 0 is not used
    // 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
    // 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
    // 3 is Mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
    // 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
    // 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)
    // 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
    // 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
    // 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)
    // 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
    // 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
    // 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
    // 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup)
    // 12 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) (calibrated for Makibox hot bed)
    // 13 is 100k Hisens 3950  1% up to 300°C for hotend "Simple ONE " & "Hotend "All In ONE"
    // 20 is the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x
    // 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950
    //
    //    1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
    //                          (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
    // 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
    // 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
    // 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (1k pullup)
    //
    // 1047 is Pt1000 with 4k7 pullup
    // 1010 is Pt1000 with 1k pullup (non standard)
    // 147 is Pt100 with 4k7 pullup
    // 110 is Pt100 with 1k pullup (non standard)
    
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 5
  3. Paul Tan

    Paul Tan New Member

    Thank you Dantzler. I hope I can find something here.
  4. The link to "Linear Drive Towers" on the documentation page takes you to docs for assembling the auto leveling probe instead....
  5. SeaScottRun

    SeaScottRun New Member

    I noticed the same thing. If you read the first post in this thread, there's a link to https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=070E802A1A3EE13C&id=70E802A1A3EE13C!114
    which has the instructions for the drive towers
  6. PAR

    PAR New Member

    Does anyone know a good source for the idler pulley and the bearing that goes inside? I think that one of my head crashes messed one of my up. I have a loud clicking noise when printing. One of the bearings sounds like there is sand (kinda crunchy) in it and the idler pulley has a nick on the inside.
  7. protoserge

    protoserge Member

  8. Alright, so I got past the previous documentation issue (thanks).

    Uh... What's going on with the "Initial Power Up and Shake Down Test" doc?
  9. samspade4321

    samspade4321 Member

    I got down to installing the arms with shoulder bolts and O-rings. I thought that the shoulder on the bolt would prevent any overtightening. However, at one point, the bolt bound up the bearing and the arm could be left sticking out at 90 degrees to the rail. I slackened off until the arm swung freely again, but then the bolt felt a little loose. Although the documentation is very useable, I couldn't find any mention of much to tighten the shoulder bolt.
  10. samspade4321

    samspade4321 Member

    - solved - O-ring wedged against the inner bearing (whew)!
  11. Joseph Tam

    Joseph Tam New Member

    hi guys.. i saw in the documentation the upper clam shell for the hot end has been replaced with a printed part .. is the STL available for that part?

    i still have the "old" design and i am just putting the printer together now

    thanks

    -joe

Share This Page