Magnetic fan duct for E3Dv6 V2 end effectors

Discussion in 'OpenBeam Kossel Reprap and OpenBeam Kossel Pro' started by grainiac, Sep 27, 2015.

  1. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    samspade4321 and roadblock like this.
  2. AndyG

    AndyG Member

    Looks excellent. If I ever get around to replacing my end effector I think I'll go with your design.

    Have you had much of a chance to test to see how well it works with smaller PLA prints?
  3. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    No not this Kossel is again out of order. Somethings wrong with the linear rails and I ordered new rails from IGUS. The V1 of this design gave me pretty nice 3DBenchy Jollies! Given the fact that the new one has much more air flow I assume it will work great. Maybe some of the guys here at the forum will give the V2 end effector + fan duct a try and share their experience. I will also once this son of a bitch printer is working again.....
  4. roadblock

    roadblock Member

    I started printing your V2 effector but my printer just couldn't print the section that holds the shoulder bolt well. The edges are just lopsided because of the circular edges...then I started to upgrad to FSR. I decided to get back to basic and try and print the V1 instead. I did noticed the hole where the shoulder bolt goes that a special size bolt width? I tried to push the bolt that came with the Kossel Pro but it was a tad too big. Was it designed for a certain size or the size that came with the Kossel Pro effector?

  5. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    @roadblock if I find the time today I will pre-slice the files with Simplify3D, add a raft for easy printing with ABS and share the GCODEs here. While printing you need to keep the part warm so putting a plastic bag around the printer would be my recommendation.
  6. roadblock

    roadblock Member

    Ok thank you. What about the bolts, is it a special bolt that I need to order? or it made to work with the existing bolts that came with the KP which I have extra of...Thanks much.
  7. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    I just reused the bolts from the old effector. Here are the GCODEs sliced with Simplify3D:

    Settings used:
    ABS Medium profile, using raft and support structures
    0.2mm layer height
    50% infill
    240°C hot end
    120°C first layer
    105°C remaining layers

    I had good results on Kapton Tape before I switched to a PEI coated aluminum print bed. If you print on glas probably ABS ink, glue stick, hair spray...whatever might be required. The most important thing is to enclose the build space during the print. How good the raft comes off afterwards depends on the filament quality and vendor. I exclusively use Verbatim ABS now and @240°C it's really easy to remove the support.
  8. roadblock

    roadblock Member

    Thanks for posting the additional settings info...that helps. I will try to print once I get my thermal runaway issues resolved.
  9. roadblock

    roadblock Member

    Finally was able to print again, I have to adjust the FSR a little since it seems to be erratic sometimes with the false sensor causing the head to adjust in the air.

    I was able to print the V2 standard big connectors (6634,6637,6638). I have to say using your GCODE file and covering it made the round part of the connectors look pretty nice. Except something happen to the bottom part of the effector, it's stringy.

    I happen to also print out the V2 but using the STL before the FSR mods. There are two different versions, I printed one standing up on one end and full support (100%) (6639,6640) and the other one was lying flat with full support (6641,6642). All of the one without the GCODE, the round part of the effector is slightly lopsided, but the flat area looks nice. However, it did take over 5 hours on each of them versus the GCODE version only took 2 hours.

    The time difference, is that from how it's sliced or from using simplify3d? I think I used 50% infill for the two also, but maybe the full support takes a lot of time...?

    Attached Files:

    grainiac likes this.
  10. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    Congratulations! The stringing will be covered by the PCB, just remove the rest of the support with a very sharp cutter. I hope you printed it in ABS! Maybe the time difference is just due to different speed Settings?

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