Pimp my Kossel

Discussion in 'OpenBeam Kossel Reprap and OpenBeam Kossel Pro' started by grainiac, Aug 27, 2015.

  1. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    I just wanted to summarize what I've done to my Kossel to eliminate all the issues I had with the original version:

    Noise reduction:
    1) Switched to a passive cooled, fanless PSU.
    2) Put printer on Taica gel pads.
    3) Installed Astrosyn dampeners.
    Hot end issues:
    4) Successfully designed and upgraded to an E3Dv6 end effector. Improved design V2 now available!
    Unreliable and uneven bed leveling:

    5) Removed the bed probe and switched to FSR probing.
    Bed clamps caused false FSR triggers:
    6) Removed bed clamps and designed my own clamps.
    7) Alternatively I designed fixations for the borosilicate glass that mount ontop of @Taylor 's FSR mount V2.
    Brainwave, firmware and support of both sucked big time:
    8) Switched Brainwave for an Azteeg X5 mini SmoothieWare powered controller.
    No display, host-less printing mode:
    9) I designed a case for the Viki2 display and installed it on the printer.
    The design file can be downloaded here: OpenBeamKosselPro_Viki2_LCD_Case
    EZStruder not powerful enough:
    10) Exchanged the EZStruder with an Bondtech V2 Extruder.
    Fragile USB port for host connection on Brainwave board:
    11) I designed a solid USB port mount for a female USB B connector.
    The design file can be downloaded here: OpenBeamKosselPro_USB_Port_Plate
    Part adherence, ABS glue, blue tape, Kapton tape...
    12) More a general problem but I have great success with my PEI coated printbed on my Felix Printer, so I ordered a PEI coated 5mm aluminium print bed custom made for the Kossel. Let's see, hopefully that's the last piece to get to a great and stressless printing experience with different materials.
    Magnetic Kossel Pro Mod
    13) I designed a new end effector and carriages that allows the usage of CF rods with ball joints to magnetically attach to effector and carriages: Magnetic Ball Joints
    IGUS DryLin T linear rails mod
    14) I replaced the China rails with high quality ones and redesigned the magnetic mounts for the arms. I also designed new mounts for the standard arms: IGUS DryLin T linear rails mod
    Improved bed probe
    15) I designed a attachable FSR bed probe compatible with E3Dv6 hotends: Attachable FSR probe for E3Dv6 hotend
    16) Updated the Bondtech Extruder V2 to QR:
    Filament Spool holder
    17) A filament spool holder for different spool sizes: Filament Spool Holder
    Belt tensioner block
    18) A replacement for the belt tensioner block using F624ZZ bearings instead of a pulley: Belt tensioner block

    Gallery of the tuned machine with all the mods above:
    https://plus.google.com/ AlexSkoruppa/posts/HJEPT1VWQTX?iem=4&hl=de-DE

    My Google+ collection of all my posts related to KP modifications:
    https://plus.google.com/ AlexSkoruppa/posts/JChJaf3C4sJ

    Here's a video of the finished printer, performing the first test print - of course it was the #3DBenchy Jolly:
    https://plus.google.com/ AlexSkoruppa/posts/AMa2irjb6hg
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2016
  2. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    Updated 1st post:
    - Magnetic stuff
    - V2 end effectors
  3. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    Updated 1st post:
    - IGUS DryLin T linear rails mod
  4. SawyerV

    SawyerV New Member

    @grainiac It's been a really long time since you have posted on these threads, but from what i can see you know alot about the problems with the Kossel Pro! ive gotten some good prints out of mine and have gone through all the woes of making it actually functional... however after about 25 prints in, a new problem has arisen! the extruder skipping has gotten worse and worse... it used to be just extruder skipping on the first layer, but now it randomy started skipping about 10 layers in, and as a result, printed the rest of the part with onoy about 30% of the filament there! (is broke to the touch)... the next print i did, it didnt even print anything but little scraps! after 15 minutes of printing, there was nothing but small bits of filament on the bed... what's my problem? im assuming some sort of clog in the nozzle but i need someones opinion... thank you!!!
  5. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    @SawyerV welcome in the KosselPro reality! Can you share some pictures and a description what HW configuration you actually use? Without that it will be hard to analyze your problem!
  6. SawyerV

    SawyerV New Member

    @grainiac everything on my KP is stock, exactly the way that open beam meant it to be! A problem I've been experiencing is the nozzle crashing into the bed on one side of the bed, and bring a little too high off the bed on the other. This can be fixed by pressing down hard on one side of the bed, however. And no, the raised ring terminal is not why on side is higher than the other. Thank you for the help by the way! Scavenging these forums has been quite a journey and I appreciate the experienced help very much!
  7. SawyerV

    SawyerV New Member

    @grainiac anyways, the reason I bring that up is because during the first layer of all my prints, the extruded skips! Because the nozzle is too close to the bed, and the filament wants to come out but it can't. My second layer is always flawless, though. Which is why it confuses me that all of a sudden, all of my layers are suddenly skipping
  8. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    And I guess that you already checked that bed probing works properly and the probe's screws are tight? I had the same with my stock end effector and the probe. Always one side to low and one to high. Seems to be a "feature" of the stock Kossel. Upgrading to one of these hacked firmwares (PJR) might help you, but they never worked on my Brainwave. Upgrading to FSR is a cheap and reliable way to fix that: http://www.ultibots.com/fsr-kit/
  9. grainiac

    grainiac Active Member

    Still you need to provide some fotos. Don't get your question. Is it extruder skips due to high pressure, or layer shifts? Both are different problems. See this guide which adresses many of common 3d printing issues: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
  10. David Boyd

    David Boyd Active Member

    Also, do you have a K-Head or the original J-Head. (sorry they change what was shipping at one point so there are stock machines with K-heads)
    What type of material?
    At what temps?

    It sounds like you have some sort of clog or blockage in the hot end that got worse over time?

    If it is a J-head, it could be the PTFE tube. They do degrade especially at higher temps.
    If it is a K head I would look for a blockage between the heatbreak and the nozzle.
  11. roadblock

    roadblock Member

    Sounds like you have to adjust your z offset since the nozzle is too close to the bed where the filament can't come out. Once it gets to the second layer it prints ok since it is at a good height. I had the same issue.
  12. William Siers

    William Siers Member

    Changing the PTFE tubing helped me a lot. My FSRs are still erratic. I removed the wafer spring and top. Replaced with a printed collar trying to get rid of the bounce, helped some but still leveling is an issue.
  13. Wow, thanks for posting, @grainiac! Nice to see the list all in one place and thanks so much for sharing with the community. I'm working my way through a number of those upgrades, though my KP seems to be printing fairly decent now. The extruder is definitely getting swapped - some improvement after switching out the Bowden tube for a true PTFE (correct me if I'm wrong, but the clear tubing isn't PTFE, right?). BTW, Matterhackers will send you a replacement if you bought from them.

    Couple quick questions:
    1. Astrosyn dampers - I have them installed as well and they definitely flex with belt tension. Seems to be a concern of some folks. What is your take? I think there are cork alternatives.
    2. How much was involved in the Smoothie transition? I like some of the auto-tuning options out there, like Rich Cattell's branch of Marlin. What are the main advantages you see to Smoothie?
    3. The IGUS rails... why did you feel they were necessary?
  14. Taylor

    Taylor Moderator Staff Member

    If anything, we've only seen improved print quality on the machines we have the astrosyn dampers on.

    I put my first set on my Rostock Max in June 2013. Since then I've put them on every machine I can - multiple Taz 5s, Airwolfs, KP, Mendel90s, Orions, etc.

    Other than a hot end, it's the first thing I'd upgrade on any machine I own.

    As for Smoothie boards, it's really a totally different printing experience - especially for deltas. The vastly improved planning capability can give you much crisper/cleaner lines, better retractions, smoother movements, and just better prints overall. Not to mention significant improvements to print speed.

    It's pretty hilarious to see people with 8-bit machines talk about their 250mm/s+ speeds.

    The first print you do on a smoothie, you'll be shocked at the speed difference because you'll actually be printing close to the speed settings specified in your slicer.

    The downside is that it's still pretty rough around the edges and it'll take you a bit to get it all set and dialed in. Still some bugs and instability with certain things, but it's where everything is going. Won't be too long before arduino machines are ancient relics.
    samspade4321 likes this.
  15. bytecounter

    bytecounter Member

    For the BWP to Smoothieware (Azteeg X5) upgrade process, it isn't that bad, but requires
    some gear to transition from the Brainwave.

    Mostly: Some "dupont"-style male/female crimp connectors, connector housings, a crimper, and a wire stripper.

    From memory:
    * Be sure that you're getting the pin terminals version (white headers), and have a microSD card to dedicate to the board.
    * Ring terminals from PSU and HBP need to be cut off and stripped to be compatible with the screw terminals.
    * The 10 pin effector cable needs to be broken out to new crimp housings/crimp connectors (the pin-out is on the Brainwave Pro PCB). If you can extract the crimps in one piece, they're actually quite good.
    * Hot end power will require a male crimp connector/ferrule [or just stripped wiring] to be inserted into the screw terminals.
    * Stock effector fans are 5V, and the voltage on the fan output is at the rail (24v). There are enough 5V outputs to just run all three always on.
    * Endstops are wired up differently on the Azteeg X5. Move a crimp on each so that it's taking up GND/SIG.
  16. @Taylor, how tight are your belts? I definitely see my steppers tilting on the astrosyn dampers when I tension the belts... though I suppose that doesn't matter too much. They are really incredible at quieting the printer!

    Ordered a Chinese version of the Smoothieboard from a link that @grainiac posted. Board and LCD for $80. Excited to try that out.

    I was looking at the Bondtech Extruder and realized I could probably use a wire feed drive used in MIG welding. I work at Miller Electric, so I can probably find one abandoned somewhere. Seems like it would work very well with some modification. The gears/drive rolls are fairly large, though... I suppose that will reduce extrusion/retraction acceleration. The Printrbot gear head extruder actually looks like a nice alternative to the pricey Bondtech.

    Also in the process of switching to magnetic ball joints. Will need to design new carriages and end effector to fit Haydn Huntley's arm design. I like the fact the contact surfaces will be nylon to whatever plating is on the ball stud. Should make for a long life joints.
  17. Taylor

    Taylor Moderator Staff Member

    Belts aren't too tight. Not tight enough to give much of a tone when you pluck it, but tight enough to not skip any steps.

    As for the extruder, not sure if you're wanting to do flexible materials, or what the problem is with the EZstruder. We've got 4-5 SeeMeCNC machines with the EZstruder on them, and I just finished up a modified TAZ with a quad hot end and I used EZstruders on it.

    If you want to modify your EZstruder, you can print out the file I attached. Use the pulley on your ezstruder, and get a standard 608 bearing, and you've got a flexible filament extruder.

    I love the Bondtech extruder - great design, and it definitely does what it says it will - but I've yet to have a good reason to buy one. IME, if you're having issues extruding with the ezstruder, it's almost certainly related to something other than the ezstruder.

    In 3+ years, and well over 10,000 machine hours, I can count on one hand the number of times I've lost prints due to extruder related issues.

    FWIW, I would spend money on upgrades in the following order (this is for any machine, not just the Kossel)

    1) Hot end
    2) Dampers
    3) Electronics
    4) PSU
    5) Heated bed/buildplate
    6) Extruder

    Assuming, of course, that the stock components are functional for their stated purpose.

    An E3D and dampers go on every machine I run. Not really even a question.

    Everything else really depends more on what you want to do with your machine.

    Attached Files:

  18. Good advice - don't fix it if it ain't broke! My EZstruder is still skipping when I try to push 80mm/s. I have the new PTFE bowden tube in place and that definitely helped, but still having issues. So if it's not the drive mechanism itself, is the stepper motor not large enough or not getting enough current? I know I read on here that was possibly an issue.
  19. Mike Francies

    Mike Francies Member

    Taylor, I've just printed the EZstruder modification but is this designed for 3mm filament? The holes seem too big for 1.75mm or do you put PTFE tube into the hoels?
  20. Steve Heer

    Steve Heer Active Member

    I was having extruder issues in the beginning, some worse than others depending on the brand of filament used. I found the bowden tube was too long which caused more than necessary resistance on pushing filament through it. I relocated my EZStruder to the Z-Tower which allowed me to cut off 350mm of the tube. With it that much shorter, I have no issues at all with extrusion now except for flexible filament. It binds before it even gets a third of the way into the tube. It appears to bunch up inside the extruder channel.

    Attached Files:

    SamC likes this.

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