1. James Mitchell

    James Mitchell New Member

    Hello guys, I am having some trouble getting my Kossel Pro to run at an even mildly acceptable print quality, there are huge gaps between infill and the outer layers and the outer layers seem to be stacked awkwardly without any level of precision. I think this is because it is now feeding correctly until it gets to the third or fourth layer and when it gets there it assumes there are layers below it, which there aren't, and continues to place into the air causing the bad quality. I work in a machine shop and need these prints to look nice and work well. How can I improve print quality? I have tried various differing start heights from .2mm up to 2.5mm and found little to no improvement in the final product. I also made sure that the calibration rod is tight and firmly in place, it was. I have now spent about six hours balancing these factors and running tests with little to no improvement. Again, what do you suggest?
  2. protoserge

    protoserge Member

    Check your autolevel routine. You may be getting the "mid air" print where the limit switch leveling probe is not properly actuated and the offset is set incorrectly. There are also other possibilities such as variance in the arm lengths and spacing between the arm ball joints. Can you provide a test print using one of the calibration cubes?
  3. James Mitchell

    James Mitchell New Member

    I can't get a cube to print right now, so apologies. I got a cube to print yesterday but I threw it away. I think that there is also a problem with infill. If I don't print something with a lot of infill, say a hollow cube it will come out much nicer but the cube had a horrific roof because it is not calibrated properly to bridge. So I guess what would you do about calibration?
  4. AndyG

    AndyG Member

    Can you post your settings for whatever slicer you're using? That would at least get us something.

    Deltas are hard - but we can help.
    James Mitchell and protoserge like this.
  5. James Mitchell

    James Mitchell New Member

    Thanks, sorry for the sparse info let me ease that a little. I use simplify3D for splicing, I wanted a program that I could use with all four of the printers I work with. I am having a lot of trouble getting another model to print in the last few days since all I can get is the "Mid-Air" print because of some fault with the auto level routine. But one problem at a time, this is a comparison of two prints I ran at the same time with one coming off a replicator 2 and the other off the Kossle (http://imgur.com/a/dg4Pf). It looks like the Kossle didn't print like the first 5 or six layers then tried to improvise from there. To try and clarify, when the Kossel was working it printed models that looked like this and now I can't get the auto leveling to work properly. What should I try first?
  6. protoserge

    protoserge Member

    Is the autolevelong routine actually contacting the bed?
  7. James Mitchell

    James Mitchell New Member

    No, not recently. I ran it yesterday, it dropped the calibration device and then raised to slowly drop onto the bed and something triggered it and then it marked all the points slightly higher than the last at about 3-6in above the bed. I assumed it was the loose calibration rod and tightened it but it didn't make a difference.
  8. protoserge

    protoserge Member

    That sounds like the limit switch is not being triggered. Pay extra attention to the standoff that is screwed into the probe. It may be loose and makimg intermittent contact. The limit switch may also be loose.
  9. James Mitchell

    James Mitchell New Member

    Okay, pre-heating bed as we speak.
  10. protoserge

    protoserge Member

    I've had it happen. I think I added some threadlocker to fix it. Hopefully this is your issue and you can use the printer again.
    James Mitchell likes this.
  11. James Mitchell

    James Mitchell New Member

    This time it made contact with the bed for the first few tests then started rising off the bed towards the end. Waiting ten minutes to check on the head so it will cool off a little. Would locktite work as a threadlocker?
  12. protoserge

    protoserge Member

    Loctite is a maker of threadlocker. The blue will work.

    Let me know if that fixes it!
  13. James Mitchell

    James Mitchell New Member

    Yes it is now calibrating correctly. But almost as soon as it finished calibrating it moved down to the bed very slowly and then pressed the tip against the bed hard enough that it wasn't able to extrude and then it went around the bed for a few more minutes before getting stuck and stopping.
  14. protoserge

    protoserge Member

    Check the z offset. It sounds like you need to reset that value. Mine is something like 1.02mm.

    Also check the build volume (printer settings) height. I think mine is set to 200mm.
  15. James Mitchell

    James Mitchell New Member

    You are a savior, what should my x and y be? Does 88.3 for each sound right?
  16. James Mitchell

    James Mitchell New Member

    Hold on... It is still dragging across the build plate without extruding the material. I have a spare Titan lying around. I'll see if the extruder is the problem.
  17. protoserge

    protoserge Member

    I'll have to get back to you. See if you can set the printer as cylindrical. I think 200mm is what I use for cylinder diameter. If your extruder is skipping, you are too close to the build surface. If you have feeler gages, set the z offset high (2mm), then see what gage fits between the nozzle and plate. Use the measurement to make an adjustment and try again.

    You can use a piece of paper as well. Set the hot end high after a g28 and g29, then lower the printer by manual input to 2mm, 1mm, etc. Work down in smaller increments until you pinch the paper. While you are workimg toward the pinch, track the sum of movement and subtract this from the height you manually set with g0 and set this value as your z offset.
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2016

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