1. Jeff Jenkins

    Jeff Jenkins New Member

    25mm calibration cube. Cube seems pretty good. Dimensions are close (I didn't bust out the calipers). There seems to be a little bit of resonance in the walls. There might be a little bit of under-extrusion happening. (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45225)
    [​IMG]
  2. protoserge

    protoserge Member

    Those walls don't look too good based on other samples. It looks like some fine tuning is required. There definitely seems to be something going on.

    Does it look better in person? Maybe the shadows on the image from the camera make the walls more wavy than they actually are.
  3. Jeff Jenkins

    Jeff Jenkins New Member

    No, it is pretty wavy. More calibration is necessary. I stopped some vibration by putting a squishy mat underneath the printer but I haven't printed again yet.
  4. protoserge

    protoserge Member

    Do you have it mounted with the rubber feet or is it resting on the vertexes?
  5. Jeff Jenkins

    Jeff Jenkins New Member

    I put the feet on the bottom of the printer. I have the whole thing resting on the mat just to stop some of the vibration noise between my printer and desk.
  6. Terence Tam

    Terence Tam Mr. OpenBeam Staff Member Vendor

    Check to see if your end effector is tight. Did you install the O-Rings on the shoulder bolts?
  7. protoserge

    protoserge Member

    Check all fasteners. Your motors could also be loose. Any vibrations in the frame could cause a print inconsistency.
  8. Jeff Jenkins

    Jeff Jenkins New Member

    I did install the O-Rings on the shoulder bolts. I did notice that after the print one of the bolts had worked itself a bit loose. I re-tightened it. I did not have the extra nuts and bolts in the end effector to help clamp the two pieces together. I'll add those today. I should have probably added these before my prints because I had a clip or two break when I snapped the two effector pieces together.

    I'll check the motors too.
  9. protoserge

    protoserge Member

    I'm starting to think I should take the opportunity now to add Loctite 242 to the remaining screws on the assembly. I put a small amount on all of the vertex screws just to be sure.
  10. Terence Tam

    Terence Tam Mr. OpenBeam Staff Member Vendor

    Be careful with applying the loctite. Loctite attacks thermoplastics. That's why we didn't include it in our kits - we use pre-applied thread locker on the set screws instead on the critical components.

    If you do use loctite, I suggest the blue lipstick. That's what I use, and it's a lot cleaner to apply:

    http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-QuickStix-442-37684-Thread-Treatment/dp/B000132VH6

    Now, at least on @Chris Gilroy 's OpenBeam Kossel Reprap - we've not had fasteners come loose. And Chris takes his printer home just about every night - he's got a 40 minute each way commute on the ice planet of Hoth (ok, fine, Calgary, AB).

    -=- Terence
  11. protoserge

    protoserge Member

    I probably should have said vertex assembly*

    I am well versed in Loctite and plastics interactions. I've only made that mistake once ;)
  12. Terence Tam

    Terence Tam Mr. OpenBeam Staff Member Vendor

    At my last job, we had the contract to build the chargers for L3's Rover 5 data terminal. Idiot manufacturing engineer substituted red loctite on an assembly when we explicitly put in all the engineering documentation that they must use Loctite 425 (which is essentially CA).

    It was for attaching the lock nut on a $100.00 connector, and it sat right on a plastic housing. This being military electronics, that was the single most expensive item on the BOM on that charger. And sure enough, within 3 months the entire batch of chargers failed as the case stress-cracked around the connector, and no rework was possible because the idiot used Loctite 271. And it was dead simple to prove that we as the CM was at fault: a big glob of red on a silver connector is awfully hard to miss.

    A production run of that charger was 200 units. So that was over $20k in just replacement connectors alone, plus new plastics, plus rework labor.

    Little wonder that they ended up being bought out by their competitor (and me being one of the first rats to jump from that sinking ship).
  13. AndyG

    AndyG Member

    Managed to print for the first time tonight a Matter Control Configuration Cube.

    Ran into the retraction issue which screwed my Z a bit but X and Y were within .004 inches of design(I know, I need a metric caliper).

    Also, this is my first 3d printed object on my first 3d printer. I think 4 thousandths of an inch as a first test is pretty amazing. Major props to Terence, Mike, and team!

    [​IMG]
  14. Dave

    Dave Member

    Do we have to put painters tape on the glass? Is it to keep it clean or provide an rough surface for the initial layer to hold too?
  15. protoserge

    protoserge Member

    Depending on what you're printing, the build surface will need to be prepared. It's all about getting adhesion of the first layer and maintaining it securely on the build platform.

    Hairspray, gluesticks, painter's tape, ABS glue have all been suggested. My personal favorite is now glue sticks because they are very cheap and relatively "un-messy".

    I think you can print PLA directly onto clean glass with painter's tape or a kapton sheet on top.
  16. sean

    sean Member

    I've been printing out calibration lizards all evening, this is the best one so far. It's not perfect but the improvements in the last few hours have been dramatic.
    [​IMG]
  17. Dantzler

    Dantzler Member

    Hey @sean , that looks great!

    Would you share your settings?

    I could not find the KissSlicer config in the dropbox file Terence posted.

    Cheers.
  18. PAR

    PAR New Member

  19. sean

    sean Member

    @Dantzler, I couldn't find the kisslicer config either. I'm using repetier-host 1.0.6 with slic3r 1.2.1 because that's what I'm most familiar with. I started with the profile i've been using for my bukito, made all the obvious settings changes, and then have been fiddling with it. I'll see if I can export the settings when I'm done with the current print job.

    @PAR, nice, what software are you using?
  20. PAR

    PAR New Member

    @sean Thanks! I am using Repetier Host.

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